Sunday, October 31, 2004

China: One Big Happy Timezone

Just a short one this morning. Yusheng said something interesting when he was here (well, actually a lot of things: one of which is the amazing 노래방/KTV places they have in Taipei which are like 5-star, 15-story hotels): China has one timezone!

Crazy as it sounds, but a testament to a central, Communist government, citizens in Jilin have sunrise at 6:10AM these days and sunset at 4:24PM; while those in Urümqi greet the sun at 8:46AM and adieu to it at 7:00PM. The good news: everyone has the same time on their watch. The bad news: if you move from east to west you go to work in the dark. Man, this is too weird. (Lots of world times here.)

Later...

Saturday, October 30, 2004

Joe Republican and Ted Liberal

Ok, ok, I know...I said there would be minimal (read: no) political stuff on this blog. But, I got this from a bud of mine and wanted to respond. It's not for the political value, it's to make you laugh (at yourself, perhaps).

A day in the life of Joe Republican

Joe gets up at 6 a.m. and fills his coffeepot with water to prepare his morning coffee. The water is clean and good because some tree-hugging liberal fought for minimum water-quality standards.

With his first swallow of water, he takes his daily medication. His medications are safe to take because some stupid commie liberal fought to ensure their safety and that they work as advertised.

All but $10 of his medications are paid for by his employer's medical plan because some liberal union workers fought their employers for paid medical insurance--now Joe gets it too.

He prepares his morning breakfast, bacon and eggs. Joe's bacon is
safe to eat because some girly-man liberal fought for laws to regulate the meat packing industry.

In the morning shower, Joe reaches for his shampoo. His bottle is properly labeled with each ingredient and its amount in the total contents because some crybaby liberal fought for his right to know what he was putting on his body and how much it contained.

Joe dresses, walks outside and takes a deep breath. The air he breathes is clean because some environmentalist wacko liberal fought for the laws to stop industries from polluting our air.

He walks on the government-provided sidewalk to subway station for his government-subsidized ride to work. It saves him considerable money in parking and transportation fees because some fancy-pants liberal fought for affordable public transportation, which gives everyone the opportunity to be a contributor.

Joe begins his work day. He has a good job with excellent pay, medical benefits, retirement, paid holidays and vacation because some lazy liberal union members fought and died for these working standards. Joe's employer adheres to these standards because Joe's employer doesn't want his employees to call the union.

If Joe is hurt on the job or becomes unemployed, he'll get a worker compensation or unemployment check because some stupid liberal didn't think he should lose his home because of his temporary misfortune.

It is noontime and Joe needs to make a bank deposit so he can pay some bills. Joe's deposit is federally insured by the FSLIC because some liberal wanted to protect Joe's money from unscrupulous bankers who ruined the banking system before the Great Depression.

Joe has to pay his Fannie Mae-underwritten mortgage and his below-market federal student loan because some elitist liberal decided that Joe and the government would be better off if he was educated and earned more money over his lifetime. Joe also forgets that his in addition to his federally subsidized student loans, he attended a state funded university.

Joe is home from work. He plans to visit his father this evening at his farm home in the country. He gets in his car for the drive. His car is among the safest in the world because some America-hating liberal fought for car safety standards to go along with the taxpayer funded roads.

He arrives at his boyhood home. His was the third generation to live in the house financed by Farmers' Home Administration because bankers didn't want to make rural loans.

The house didn't have electricity until some big-government liberal stuck his nose where it didn't belong and demanded rural electrification.

He is happy to see his father, who is now retired. His father lives on Social Security and a union pension because some wine-drinking, cheese-eating liberal made sure he could take care of himself so Joe wouldn't have to.

Joe gets back in his car for the ride home, and turns on a radio talk show. The radio host keeps saying that liberals are bad and conservatives are good. He doesn't mention that the beloved Republicans have fought against every protection and benefit Joe enjoys throughout his day. Joe agrees: "We don't need those big-government liberals ruining our lives! After all, I'm a self-made man who believes everyone should take care of themselves, just like I have."
And my response:

A day in the life of Ted Liberal (aka: But, hey,...)

Ted gets up and makes his tea that comes from a plantation that was established by white Imperialists in some god-forsaken corner of the world and then transported, processed and sold to him by a complex web of self-interested, greedy sons-of-bitches who want nothing more than to profit from his addiction. But, hey, he likes tea.

Ted then take a shower with water heated by some Capitalist corporation that cares nothing about his needs as a person and treats him only as an address on his monthly bill. But, hey, he likes a hot shower.

Then Ted travels to work in a car produced by legions of underpaid and underemployed part-time workers in some backwater area of the world--like the Philippines or Kentucky. Of course the fuel he consumes comes from gaudishly-rich sheiks and Texas-drillers through a stifiling cartel. But, hey, he just has to get to work.

At the office, Ted uses a PC, many pens and reams of stationary as he goes about his duties. All of which were made in deplorable conditions and by applying toxic substances to components made of non-renewable resources. But, hey, he has work to do.

For lunch Ted likes to go to a local deli where meat and chese is shipped in from all over the world--meaning an incredible usage of energy and resources and production of much pollution as the cows are bred and fed, milked or slaughtered and processed, and the final product shipped to his plate. But, hey, he's hungry.

At night, Ted kisses his baby girl good night and thinks to himself that he's glad that he did his part to make the world a nicer place to live.
Haha?

Friday, October 29, 2004

Top Ten List and Yusheng vs. Minaz

Herewith is the official "Top Ten Things From Yusheng's Seoul Visit"

10. Within 4 hours of touching down in the country, gets date with gorgeous girl.
9. Carrying around that massive camera and telephoto lens makes for great pick-up lines with wanna-be models.
8. Can translate Japanese and Chinese restaurant menus as an icebreaker.
7. The room at the Ben Hur Hotel...no closets, but awesome tub and shower.
6. Getting home at or before 2AM every night...that was nice.
5. Hearing about New York and how everything in Seoul (food, taxies, hotels...) is 'mad cheap'.
4. Having almost every Korean we meet start speaking to him in Korean...even days after they meet him.
3. Finally got away from his 'Paris & Yusheng' home video scandal.
2. The Red Sox won the World Series...oh, no that's the wrong list.
1. Two words: The Outsider.
and...

In the spirit of Alien vs. Predator here is the comparison of Yusheng and Minaz's trips to Seoul:

Women:
Minaz: 2 weeks in Seoul, no action.
Yusheng: Got a date the first night, it lasted.
Advantage: Yusheng

Language:
Minaz: Learned 2 things 아가씨/agasshi (girl) and 물좀주세요/mool-jom-joo-sai-yo (some water please).
Yusheng: Within 2 days got down 감사합니다/kam-sa-ham-ni-da (thank you), 죄송합니다/jwi-song-ham-ni-da (sorry-polite), 물좀주세요/mool-jom-joo-sai-yo (some water please)...more.
Advantage: Yusheng

Lodging:
Minaz: My floor (tough to entice a girl back to that).
Yusheng: The lovely Ben Hur Hotel (turn your speakers on when you click).
Advantage: Yusheng

Communication:
Minaz: Borrowed phones from cabbies and (female) passer-bys.
Yusheng: Rented a cell at the airport.
Advantage: Yusheng

Clothing:
Minaz: From a backpack, but respectable 제비/jay-bi (playboy) style.
Yusheng: Some wild stuff; about 20 pairs of pants.
Advantage: Draw

Hilarity Factor:
Minaz: Take a read of the posts from when he was here. He approached everyone for a conversation: men, women, Korean, foreign, English-speaking, no clue-what-he's-saying...everyone.
Yusheng: He's a unique guy...albeit relatively stable.
Advantage: Minaz

Schedule:
Minaz: Likes to stay out til 4AM or 5AM everynight...no way I can keep up with that and work the next day.
Yusheng: Always home before 2AM.
Advantage: Cinderella, I mean Yusheng

Hair:
Minaz: Got none--shaved scalp, baby!
Yusheng: Got lots, dyed, funky cut, moulding mud spiked.
Advantage: Draw

Physique:
Minaz: Big upper body, but gimped feet.
Yusheng: The guy never exercises, but still pretty slim.
Advantage: Draw

Well, I guess when you look at it this way Yusheng has many of the advantages. That's not to say that Minaz's time here wasn't a blast too...both guys made the most of the time they were here and I appreciate both of them making the trek here.

Thursday, October 28, 2004

Yusheng's Last Night in Seoul

Last night we headed out to 63 Building to get a view of the city. I find I either bring guests here on their first day or last day in Seoul. It's really a nice view. After a beer we got pretty hungry so it was off in a cab to Sinchon for some 산낙지/san-nak-ji (live octopus). My usual place changed owners and menu (now it serves some sort of cow intestine dish...kind of a Korean haggis, I guess) but a substitute was nearby so we went there.

We asked the lady to get us an active octopus (they cut it up and serve it wriggiling on a plate) but she said that the active ones are not that good...they are scared so they move around a lot. The sleepy ones in the corner are better because they are used to their surroundings (and darker in color). Whatever, she could have told us anything and we would have bought it. We also had some octopus fried mandu (dumplings) which were REALLY good. Yoosh's not a big octopus fan, but it was interesting for him...although not super. Oh well, another one for his list of things he's done/eaten.


This feisty one was not on the menu.

Next we went for 서피동파/seo-pi-dong-pa, a sort orf fusion pizza and pajeon. This he liked more. Then it was off to The Outsider to thank the owner for the (basically full) bottle of Jack Daniel's he comped us on Friday. We hoped to make it out of there relatively intact, but he went and comped us some food and they made up 'James Dr. Peppers' as well (recipe is 1/2 pint beer, 1/2 pint cola and amaretto shot 'bomb'). Yikes. So the last night was much like the first...in The Outsider and having a good time.

This morning I walked Yoosh to the bus stop and that was about it. Who knows where/when we'll meet again: New York; Shanghai; Seoul; Vancouver; London?


I think he's happy in this pic...maybe he's fighting back tears.

Wednesday, October 27, 2004

Busy, Busy Day.

Today, like so many others was a day of work, broken up by my (usually daily) walk to the 산업은행/san-eop-eun-haeng (Korea Development Bank, or KDB) cafeteria in its basement. The place is like a museum and is an architectual testament to government spending: 80-foot (25 metre) ceilings in the massive foyer, dispersed offices and many, many staff. The cafeteria is large, too. Airy, bright, clean and incredibly cheap. Usually meals are 3,000 won (2.50USD) and the max is 5,000 won (about 4.25USD) as it was today. But look what I got for that (there's so much it didn't even fit in the picture!):


Kalbi-tang, whole fish, rice, noodles, octopus, 2 kinds of kimchi and some orange...soooo full.

Afterward I had my first shoeshine. (I have shined my shoes, but this is the first that wasn't a side-effect of a repair or something.) This couple worked so hard at spit-and-polishing them I felt a little guilty at the 2,000 won pricetag...then I saw their backlog of work. Wow, they must make a mint here in Yeouido.


Look at that! Her hand is a blur!

After work I met Yusheng at Technomart to look for a new camera, the Sony T-3. Andrea just got the T-11 (for some reason they named them T-1, T-11 and T-3) a couple of weeks ago from Yongsan, but the T-3 has a lens cover and is not sold in North America at all (I think they get by with just the T-1 there) so Yusheng wanted to get one here (or in Tokyo, but the price was ok here too). It took a while (had to ask tons of sellers) but he found one and picked it up.

After that we went to the Hyatt Hotel to meet a friend (another Andrea) who works at an insurance company in Seoul. Andrea is pretty good at English and Yusheng (opportunistically) seems to have a fetish for Korean gals this week, so it made for a good start to the night.

We were going to go to JJ's (review here and my blog posting on it here) but it was about 6:30 when we got there...a little early, and the restaurants and lounge there are great for entertaining for business, but for us it was a little sedate. We got in a cab and went to Treins in Seoul Station (review here) and had some food and beers...then it was off to a noraebang for some offkey (that was mine) singing. Bunny from Saturday night was in the neighborhood and joined us for a couple of songs and then we took the train to Daehangro.

Once there we met up with Kelvin and Yen from Saturday and hit Kkoon bar. It was quiet in there, but pretty fun. Yusheng was quite hungry at the end of it all so we went to 이남장/E-nam-jang which apparently is a nationally-famous restaurant for 설렁탕/seol-leong-tang (beef boiled for 24 hours and served with rice and noodles in the mixture). It was good. Yusheng said it's the same as NY 설렁탕 (albeit a lot cheaper)--seems the #1 place to go in the wee hours of the night in NY is the Korean restaurants as they are ALL open 24 hours. (The # is 02-3675-8888 if you want to go there.) Speaking of wee...for some reason Yusheng can't hold over a beer in his bladder...man, did he ever have to whiz a lot.


Yoosh dives into his bowl of Seol-leong-tang as Yen stares down the camera.


I go crazy with my Seol-leong-tang as Kelvin strikes a pose.


The boys and their soup...where's Bunny? Oh, behind the camera.

After that we decided to call it a night and broke up....until next time.

Oh, how can I forget...you know my favourite thing to take a pic of when out on the town: no-shame Korean bathrooms...here's another one (near the noraebang). It's not too bad, but not up to North American standards.


You guessed it...another wide-open lavatory shot.

Tuesday, October 26, 2004

Hold on to Your Hats! -refers to pic.

Just been too busy these last couple of days to get super-creative in the ol' blog for you guys...will get back on track in a few days. Yusheng is here, as you know, and in Korea having a foreigner/out-of-towner in town is a great excuse to slack on everything else.

I'm also doing a bit more work lately. Our CEO has an interesting little business niche to exploit and they need me to do a lot of the 'English' stuff (reading, writing, talking, Googling...) that makes life so hard for them here. In my 'real' job of hedge fund stuff I often wonder what they'd do without me (not to elevate myself too much) because many of our supplier companies' people have various accents (English, Irish, Scottish, French, German, Swedish, Swiss, American potpourri...) which are quite impenetrable for the locals. And when it comes to legal contracts they can get the words, but sometimes convolute (up to 180 degrees) the meaning. It's really quite incredible. But, there is progress here. But, they will always be Korean. But, things are slowly changing. But, it will take a long time. But, it will happen. (I think you get my meaning, but maybe not.)

Also, there is a pervasive idea that (i) Koreans cannot understand 'pure' foreign things and especially (ii) foreigners cannot understand 'pure' Korean things. So even though they can understand it (the guys I work with are all from the best schools) it seems sometimes like they just can't. And although I've been here 2 years (and 1 week, but who's counting? oh, I am) there is no way I can understand some of their concepts--no matter how many times I say: "Yes, I got it; I understand; it's in there." 아이씨/aisshi! (men's expression of exasperation) The funniest things is much of what they are explaining are Western ideas and procedures that I know like the back of my hand, but they learned them in Korean so figure they are Korean notions. 아이씨 again!

On to lighter topics. As you know, I'm a tight-ass and have been buying lots of shirts and ties lately. Today I looked at this combination: a small windowpane. Shirt is blue on white; tie is light blue and white on navy. At first I thought it'd look like crap, but when I put it on, to my surprise, it looked good. (Maybe Yusheng and his funky clothes have changed me.) At least I don't have a windowpane jacket to make it incredibly nuts...that would be a fashion-crime. Oh, and the prices: 6,500 for the shirt, 4,000 for the tie.


Try to control yourself...as you can see I'm one wild and crazy guy!

Still on the clothing front (narcissist that I am) I'm getting a little shocked at how I'm losing weight lately. Actually my weight is the same, but my muscles are bulking and fat is begin shed. As I noted, I've already cut my belt down, but now I'm down to the last hole...and I'm fitting into suits I almost gave up on a few months ago (although the jackets are feeling a little tight now). I guess it's not a bad thing...before I was trying to find pants big enough for my girth. Just hope I can keep this up. I got a little worried yesterday as I did such a heavy chest workout my right boob/pec was twitching all night. Hulk like work out...aaaaaarrrrrrghhhhhhhhh!

Monday, October 25, 2004

The End of an Era

What can I say? Shawn's blog has packed its bags and left cyberspace. Well, actually, thankfully, only Shawn has stepped away from it...the blog will stay online for generations to enjoy. I was comment FORTY-THREE on his last posting...which goes to show you how many people read (I mean really read) his daily comments on life in Korea.

Shawn,

Your blog was what got me to start mine. I read a few beforehand, but so many of them were either: (i) depressing, (ii) too damn political (Korean and/or American/Western). Yours was/is (*sob*) funny, true and incredibly self-deprecating (a pic of you with no shirt on? that takes guts, man!) and it's THAT side of Korea and myself that I try to portray in my blog (um, ya, as if...).

Anyways, if you're going to do a Jerry Seinfeld and 'go out on top' I guess this is the time to do it...just don't do a Michael Richards and not have an encore. Be like Jerry: sell the syndication rights, marry and get a home in the Hamptons and 15 Porches!

JB
Maybe that's it for today for me. 'Til tomorrow...

Neat Looking Blades

Well, they're not really rollerblades/inline skates, but they seem to handle the problem of how to get into a no-skate place/building with a little style. I can't see myself attaching a line of skates to special shoes (one brand is Hypnoskates), and those Heely things just have one wheel in the (you guessed it) heel. I found these while checking out some info for my boss. (Little does he know that much of what I do is googling...oh crap, I think he reads this blog too.)


The Instrek....what do you think?

Well, for 157,000 won (136USD) they better be good...not sure if I can justify buying a pair. My old blades are Nikes that I got here 2 years ago and apparently the aluminum rails are a lot better than plastic (especially, as it was so eloquently said to me, for a larger guy like me) but I can probably get a wicked pair for 157 grand...at least I know what I'm buying then. Maybe the guys at Instrek will see that I am a market maven and trend-setter and comp me a pair...I wonder. I wonder what wheels to get as replacements too...and would I still end up buying 'serious' blades for my cross-country treks? I've been inlining for like 8 years: are these a little too pedestrian for a guy like me who has a need for speed on the sidewalks of Seoul?

Looks like there is a little competition, too. Streetflyers (official site here) seem to think that 2 wheels are better than one (Heely) but are these 3-wheeled Instreks better? There's some cool movies on the site of 3 kids booting around Seoul (including Olympic Park Plaza....ah, those were the days when I lived near there). Minaz and my Dutch buds might want to click on the "Passion" vid where our favorite song is: I got what you need so tell me what you need...

If anyone has tried these things please let me know. I'd like a wing tip version if possible for my commute.

Sunday, October 24, 2004

Weekend in Seoul aka Yusheng's Big Adventure.

Thanks for your comment, Terri. Although I can't divulge all of the details I do have some info about Yusheng and 성희/Seong Hee's 'date'. It started when I went to Yusheng's hotel to get him on Saturday and spotted this sign (below).


Tom's Lobster is now Canadian Lobster...wonder if I can get Molson Canadian beer there?

Then we made our way to Daehangro for the VT meeting. We took the bus (the lovely 263 from Yeouido to Namdaemoon Market) for some of the trip, as I wanted Yoosh (I'm the first and only person to call him that) Seoul overground...he's seen subways before. He said it reminded him of Tokyo...pretty clean, busy...but that Seoul is a 'foreign' country for him because he can't read any of the signs. He's fluent in Mandarin and can understand Cantonese and, thus, can read many signs in Japan but here he hasn't a clue on many of them.

Anyhoo, we transferred to the subway and it was then that I noticed my phone battery was almost toast. Crap! My number is the reference for everyone coming and we didn't exactly have an itinerary set out. As well, no chance of an audioblog--had to conserve the battery. As it turns out they lasted long enough to get everyone together. So, who was there: Yoosh, Seong Hee (his 'date'), Bunny (another VTer, her Korean name is almost impossible for us foreingers to pronounce), Rachel (Supernib on VT), Jason (her beau), Kelvin (Lanatir on VT), his bud Yen (an auditor from PriceWaterhouse in K.L.), Dawn (a teacher), another Rachel (Psychokitty from VT), another Jason (friend of them from Australia), and Jane (another teacher). Holy crap, that's a pretty big group. We were sure to get discounts with a posse like that.

We made our way to a 닭갈비/dak-kalbi (chicken & hot pepper sauce dish) place and took over 3 tables. Also ordered beers, soju and 오십세주/oh-ship-sai-joo (50% baeksaiju, 50% soju) and the fun started. Everyone started talking adn stuff and I found out that Supernib and Jason have been here 3 years and are ready to go back--they met in Canada and figured what better way to test their relationship than to go to a place like Korea for a few years. Ha! Talk about trial by fire. I couldn't take any pics on account of the battery situation, but Yoosh had his massive professional-grade camera so I'm sure he took a few (not that I could remember if he did or not). Yoosh and his gal weren't talking much (his Korean is basically zero and her English, while passable, was not too good with all the noise and booze). He just said: "Ya, we're can't really communicate right now." or something...hmmmm...wonder what that means?

After dinner it was off to 꾼/Kkoon for beers. The owner knows me there and he got a couple to move so we could have seats at the ice-bar. We also got free cuttlefish mmmmmm... Someone (me) had a bottle of tequila there and started pouring shots...what a nut. At about 11 Jane and Dawn had to leave, but we convinced Jason to stick around...haha.

Next was the 노래방/noraebang (singing room). We got a massive room and I proceeded to do my pitiful rendition of 1979. After that the real singing started. Kelvin and Yen bolted at about 1AM, and after the time was up (actually it was finished a couple of times, but we told the manager to give us more time..as in free time) both Jasons and Supernib headed for bed (not together, though). The rest of us proceeded to the only dance bar in Daehangro (that I know of): Bunker.

Of course Bunker was loaded with people. With a 1 drink minimum and good tunes it's a rockin' place to be. We wanted to go to Hongdae but Psychokitty seemed in her element in Bunker, so we parted there.

In Hongdae we hit Hodge Podge, but that didn't last long. I saw my old stalker (a story from before my blogging days) and we got the heck out of there. If you're in Seoul long enough you'll get a stalker (even if you're a guy!) For my Dutch buds they got one on their first night out (right after I told them there is no chance for them to meet girls easily here...what did I know). Basically, a stalker is a Korean girl (in my case) who is quite aggressive and tries to, well, 'get' you. It's weird as most Korean gals are pretty timid, shy, reserved...that sort of thing. But these gals are anything but. Thankfully call-display is all the rage here and you can block the calls, but for a while it gets damn annoying. I have to tell you also that I wasn't encouraging her at all...but Koreans have a way of taking most/all things to extreme. This is just so you know...if you're single and out for a good time then this place is cool. If you're married and face capital punishment for any infidelity (as I am) you have to watch your step here.

We all got home safe and sound. Man, I was so bagged at the end of all that--I think my own shoring woke me up a couple of times...my poor neighbors!

Sunday was a little more sedate. Yoosh and I headed to Namdaemoon Market for a little shopping and sightseeing. I found my favorite shirt-seller there and picked up 4 from him for 26,000 won (about 22USD). Korea is funny. You have your high-end department stores where they sell the same things for 45-65,000 each and your street-sellers who mark it down to 5-20,000 apiece. One of the shirts he had even has a Meryvn's tag on it and a $15.99 price point! I've seen ones with Moore's tags on them too, but most are last season's stuff from Home Plus or Lotte Department Store. I also saw another good shirt, but it was 10,000 won...still got it though. I had fun with the lady selling them...a little chatting in Korean about how some of the shirts were 제비/jay-bi (playboy) style shirts. Did she think I was a playboy? Haha...no discount. Crap, oh well, here you go: 10,000 won. What the heck.



We strolled to 명동/Myoung-dong and Yoosh got out his telephoto lens for some long-range shots of people. He does model-shoots as well as architectual photography and he said they always use the telephotos because it makes the model seem slimmer, as opposed to the wide-angle ones that spread you out (obviously ALL pics you see of me are wide-angle...I'm actually very thin). So you get this model on one end of the room and the photographer on the other side barking orders to her...haha. Kinda looks like he's aiming a rifle, doesn't it?


Yusheng the paparazzi

In a coffeeshop on the 4th floor of Lotte Young Plaza (young is the new fad here). Check out this table. Yoosh's camera is on it...making it look smaller.


Cool kidney-shaped table.

After meeting up with Seong Hee we had 빙수/bing-soo (ice, fruit and yoghurt ice cream) which Yoosh loved. (Have to get some pics from him.) After that we went to Insa-dong and walked around. Saw this neat store with lots of old toys in it.


Wow, old action figures!


They love their Astroboy here.


This big boy is 90,000 won (about 80USD)! Maybe I should get my mom to ship my old toys here.


Here's an interesting one...a doll in a towel. From Japan; where men read sex-filled comics on the subway.

Then it was time for more food. We really weren't that hungry but had nothing since dunch at 2:30, about 6 hours ago (dunch is a throw-back to the Dutchboys who lived here last year...they always got up last after a night out and had breakfast/lunch after 2 or 3 PM...couldn't call it brunch so they called it dunch: Dutch + lunch). Yoosh wanted to compare New York Koreatown Bulggogi and Pajun to the Korean versions...they're pretty similar, but the Korean ones (even with Insadong's higher prices) were cheaper.


Here are those two in the restaurant...everyone's very tired.


Ancient Yoyos? Anyone know what these shaped rocks are?


Even more tired...on the subway now. Finally got Yusheng to be a little wacky.

Tune in tomorrow for more "Adventures of Yusheng"!

Friday, October 22, 2004

Interesting Signs and Yusheng's First Night

Yesterday I played a little hooky from work. Well, I had a meeting downtown, how is that?, but it gave me a chance to see downtown Seoul in daylight on a weekday--something I haven't done for a while. I spotted these two marques that I've seen before, but finally got a pic of.


Sometimes a Subway is not a Subway. Can you say copyright infringement?


The only Starbucks I've ever seen that has the sign in Hanguel.

Last night, I noted in the audiopost, Yusheng came town. I was pretty happy to see a familiar face again; it's been a couple of weeks since Minaz left. Actually, he's not that familiar, I haven't seen the guy for about 4 years. We met while working on one of them dot.bomb companies (it's actually still in business, though!) and now his occupation is "architectual photographer" or some such cover. (His site has TONS of building photos.) He said I look younger (the second person to say that this week) and that he looks fatter--which he does not. He got a good deal on his hotel room (thanks to me) but it doesn't have a closet in it for all of his 제비옷/jay-bi-ot (playboy clothes). Oh well...what do you expect from a 'love hotel'...hehe.

Of course we went to The Outsider bar, but first we hooked up with Terri Kim, a VTer from Philadelphia who was in town this week. This was my first time meeting her, but she is a regular reader of the ol' blog (which I'm sure you are as well). It was kinda funny...I was talking about the Buitoni (pasta) restaurant on the first floor of the building where I got service from the owner (who I met a couple of weeks ago) and she said, "Oh ya, I rememeber that." Huh? Oh ya, I put it in the blog. Imagine how the stars feel when the Enquirer writes about them (not as if this is even close to that, I'm not some pure meglomaniac)...at least I have some control over the lies in this thing.


Yusheng trying not to crack a smile. Kinda looks like a thug, don't he?


Terri Kim, VT member and Korean-American (single too!).


Here's another, better, pic of Terri. Time for me to get a real good camera phone.

The owner joined us for a drink...well, more than a drink...he bought a bottle of Jack Daniel's and food for us--all service. What a guy. His wife and kids are in San Francisco so him and I share a similar fate here in Seoul. Yusheng made mention that he liked the looks of one of the gals and I told this to the owner...next thing I know he's setting it up for her to join us tonight for the VT meeting. Interesting place, this Korea, where bosses can 'invade' workers' personal lives (although she didn't put up a fight...I think she likes the look of this Yusheng character).

This morning I got up at 8:30 and hit the gym...finally. My lazy ass hasn't been in there since Tuesday on account of I've had too many nights out lately. It felt good...but now it's time for a nap. Good thing Yusheng hasn't slept for 2 days, maybe I can get some shut-eye before he starts moving around.

First Audiopost

Oh my God...my voice sucks. The good news is it's easy to get this thing going...just click on open (play) or save (save to file then play, which is what I have to do on this computer for some reason).

this is an audio post - click to play

Thursday, October 21, 2004

Get ready for Hallowe'en and Big Buildings in Seoul

Saw this posting on a couple of sites:
ALL-NIGHT HALLOWE'EN BOOZE/DANCE PARTY IN YEOIDO! (Canucklehead style!)
Date: Saturday, October 30th
Time: (9:00 pm until 5:00 am)
Location: KAPA Brewpub (Basement), Youido; Take Line 5 to Youido Subway Station...Go out Exit #5, turn right immediately go through the entrance in the building right there (with Dunkin Donuts...),. and to the big parking lot in the back; Turn right, go down the stairs...Voila! There will be signs showing directions for the directionally-challenged, but the distance from the subway exit to the stairs from the parking lot is about 30 metres at most.
Cost: 40,000 won per person
Includes: All you can drink Beer (Microbrew and local draft) and Wine.
Schedule: Midnight-1:00AM Buffet meal; 4AM Survivors' Breakfast (Bacon/Ham and Eggs; Toast and coffee);
Prizes for: Best Costume (Male and Female); Best Carved Pumpkin; plus a Substantial Door Prize.
Music: Provided by FROZEN NORTH: All kinds of GOOD dancy stuff; all genres
For info and to order tickets, please go to: psypumpkin@yahoo.com

Thanks, Frozen North Productions
Hmmm....let's see, it's walking distance from my place, will feature Canadian stuff (whatever that is) and all-you-can-drink-and-eat....sounds good to me. As for a costume...I'll probably go as a salaryman or Wall Street trader (what a lazy-ass I am).

If anyone else is in, please leave a comment or email me from my profile (on the right, near the hideous pic).

Speaking of Yeouido, I used to think that the 63 Building was the tallest in Korea, but it looks as if some are already taller and more, even higher, structures are proposed. Take a look at all of them here and some cool pics of buildings and stuff are here. Then there's this video I found in the forum area...it's supposed to be set in North Korea but it's in Chinese and subtitled in German. Kinda funny, but the stream was a little choppy for me.

And I pilfered this story from Grant's blog. It's really quite odd that Koreans believe in 'fan death'. I go to sleep with mine on all the time in the summer, my air conditioner too (it's a good filter of all the brutal pollutants we have here in Seoul) and I haven't died yet.

Adding Audioblogger to Hometown: Yeouido and Breakfast in the Office

After hearing some pretty hilarious stuff on Tom Green's blog, I've decided to take the plunge and try out Audioblogger on the ol' blog. Of course, some of the audiopostings he made are kinda mundane, but even those are kinda funny.

Sometimes (maybe usually) Tom is a little loopy when he gets on the phone(like that relative of yours who calls you when their tanked, no matter the time or effect of timezones). Here's a typical audiopost with alcohol added (keep in mind that Tom extends the word blog so it sounds like blaawg, what a nut):

Tom: Hey, Jeff, talk to my blog.
Jeff: Hello? Hello? There's no one there!
Tom: No, it's the Internet, you're talking on my blog.
Jeff: Your what?
Tom: My blog; just use it like an answering machine. Talk.
Jeff: Whose answering machine?
Tom: Um, mine.
Jeff: Ok, um, hey Tom I guess you can't get to the phone because you're out drinking with me. Call me and we can hit the bar! How's that?
Tom: Oh, great, fantastic. You have a real good radio voice. Who's next?
-pause-
Brooke Shields: Hi! We're here at the bar in Vancouver and Tom is pouring drinks down my throat and Jeff is hitting on the ladies here. Have a good day everyone on the Internet!
-pause-
Tom: You, sir, would you say something for my blog?
-pause-
Biff: Ya! Tom Green rocks! Woo-hoo!
Tom: Ok, thank you. Thank you. Well, just wanted to check in with everyone. Now I have to go save some gals from Jeff's advances.
-click-
I'll probably bring it out at the VT thing on Saturday night. Damn! Wish I had thought of this for the The Koreans concert...I could have broken more copyright laws. Should be fun...who knows, maybe MTV will pick up my 'act' and I'll be a star! Ya, right.

Last night a bud of mine gave me some 호박떡/ho-bak-ddeok (pumpkin rice cake) so since I can't eat 2 trays of the stuff I took it to the office. It's Mr. Jo's birthday also (why do I call him Mister? I'm about 3 years older than him...) so I got him a 삼각김밥/sam-gak-kim-bab (triangle seaweed, rice and meat treat) from 7-11. Well, no sooner than when the others saw this that they started wailing "배고파요/bae-go-pa-yo (I'm hungry)!" 아이씨/aisshi! "잠깐만/jam-ggan-man (just a sec-informal)!" I went back down to the 7-11 to get 3 more for these famished souls. Of course the 7-11 gal who always sees me get 1 Jumbo 삼각김밥 and just saw me get 2 this morn had to start going on about 돼지/dwei-ji (pig) and rounding her hands across her gut as if I had a growing paunch. Oh ya, all these are for me...I can eat 5 Jumbos in one morning...haha, very funny. Well, I just did the ol' Korean trick: I threw it back at her, pointing at her gut and saying "나/na (you-informal), 당신dang-shin (you-formal)??" Ha ha, got you there.


Wow, Jo is a fast eater...couldn't even get a pic of the complete tray!

So tonight Yusheng comes and Jo has his birthday...by the time Yoosh gets here I should be in good spirits (or at least have some good spirits in me).

Here's an interesting story I got from a comment on Shawn's blog. Hmmm...

Finally, here's a story (actually a blog that is published in the Globe & Mail (Canadian newspaper) about how Google saved someone's life (?!?!?).

Wednesday, October 20, 2004

Updated Pics from Minaz

Ok, ok, I said that I was finished putting pics of Minaz's visit up on the site...but I got a few from him just now and thought you'd like to see them. I debated putting them in the chronological postings, but I figure if you want to see them then you'd like them all in one place, and if you don't then who cares.

Oh, and if you want a good laugh take a look at this bloke's blog (Oct 20th posting). Hilarious.


Minaz and 2 kids at the Chinese restaurant.


Minaz making friends at Kkoon bar.


Guys dancing at Bunker (where are the girls??)


More guys dancing...and me looking on. White boy got no rhythm.


Another pic of Minaz and his man Sung in HongDae.


Me contemplating eating street food....nah! (Take a look at them Popeye-esque forearms!)


Manila traffic...and I thought Seoul was murder on the roads!


Boracay...just as I remember it.


Ya, just like this. Ahhhhhh...


Minaz and his suit-man, Mr. Kim. Check out the shirt...that way no hookers or thieves will touch him. (By the way, nice gut.)


Minaz gives the camera a 's#it-eating grin' as he soaks in The Outsider's croupiers and dealers.


Minaz and I enjoy one more night at The Outsider. (The martini is shaken, vodka--dubbed the 'James Martini' in that bar.)


A line of pok-tan-juu (bomb booze) ready to go.


After a few bombs...making friends: one is the owner of Wa-Bar in Yeouido, the other is Wa-Bar's corporate CIO.


Last shot...Me in front of Yeouido Full Gospel Church (near my office) just before he got on the bus.

The Japanese Love "The Koreans" and Being an Insider at "The Outsider"

From time to time I take a look at my little hit counter and see how many people are reading this thing. (To be truthful, I obsess over it.) Anyways, the average daily visitors has gone up from about 15 to 30 to 60 over the last few months; however, yesterday 251 people (or 502 'eyes') came to my little blog, which was quite remarkable (about 4 TIMES the recent usual). I took a look at where they were linking from and there were 2 main places:

1. This Cyworld homepage (get this, there are about 45 million people in Korea, and about 20 million Cyworld homepages) where the gal has a tribute to The Koreans and were actually standing next to me at the concert on Saturday! (Actual referring page is here.)

2. (The big one.) This site (entirely in Japanese) seems to be where they all came from (scroll down to #161). My readers from Japan jumped from almost nothing to #3 in the charts.

What's more, my The Koreans Rocked Seoul posting is now my #1 looked-at page. Well, I don't know how sticky all of this traffic will be, but it's interesting to see what people are interested in and where they are from. To quote 'shit-break' from American Pie after the webcam incident: "God bless the Internet".

Ok, back to dry land now. (That doesn't make much sense.) Last night I went out for 'work' with one of our office workers and a guy from a partner firm (they do the investment trust management). We went out for dinner then to 'my' bar, The Outsider. It's a neat place, everyone there knows me: I sometimes go 4-5 times a week (even twice in a night if I get a call from my bud 동준/DongJoon, who lives in the same building, to go out for a drink). Lately I've toned it down a bit, but my status is still alive and well (even if my liver isn't).


John and me at The Outsider (from a while back).

Every night at 10PM they have something special. On Mondays the bar-girls sing a song on stage, Wednesdays is when a singer and/or pianist does their thing on stage and Fridays are Bingo-nights (I won a ball a while back, remember?).


Fantastic pianist and accomplished singer at The Outsider.


Mr. Yoon listening intently to John's pearls of wisdom.

You know, I call him Mr. Yoon, but I'm actually a few months older than he is. That's the thing here. I call (more or less) 'Westernized' guys (like John) by their English names and 'pure' Koreans by their Korean names. Anyone else do that?


Mr. Yoon again, just in case you didn't get a good look at him in the last pic.

One of the songs playing (not sung, mind you) was Sting's Englishman in New York. I wonder how it would sound it I wrote it? I wonder...

I don't eat soondae, I'll have sausages
I like my kimchi nice and fresh
Here in Seoul there ain't much snow
I'm a Canadian in Yeouido

See me walking past 포장마차/pojang-macha [streetfood restaurants]
I won't dare set foot inside
I was sick one time and that's enough
I'm a Canadian in Yeouido

I'm an alien, I'm an E-7 alien
I'm a Canadian in Yeouido
I'm an alien, I'm an E-7 alien
I'm a Canadian in Yeouido

If knowing Korean gets you a discount here
I will study all the time
You know I like to haggle for everything I buy
Top quality, and never pay full price
Top quality, and never pay full price

I'm an alien, I'm an E-7 alien
I'm a Canadian in Yeouido
I'm an alien, I'm an E-7 alien
I'm a Canadian in Yeouido

A smile and a wink, will get you more than you think
Koreans love a bright and cheerful face
Gentleness, sobriety don't work in this society
Over here tea-tottlers are out of place

Just one more drink and we're done tonight
Now that you're finished: just one more
We've got a bottle of whiskey here in front of us
And four more empty rattling on the floor

Never leave a glass empty for long
They will think you're very crass
When you're drunk, there's no need to be polite
You can belch and scratch your ass
You can belch and scratch your ass...

I'm an alien, I'm an E-7 alien
I'm a Canadian in Yeouido
I'm an alien, I'm an E-7 alien
I'm a Canadian in Yeouido

And on that note...time for work.

Tuesday, October 19, 2004

TWO YEAR ANNIVERSARY!

Wow, hard to believe I've been here two (2) full years. It was October 20, 2002 when our plane touched down at Incheon Airport for that fateful 2-3 weeks trip to Seoul. Little did I know my wife and I would have another baby boy (conceived in Seoul, no less) to keep our first boy company within a year and that I'd be here all this time. (Our whole story is here.)

Over the years (man, strange to say that) I've done a lot here. Met many people, had some good times and some not-so-good and managed to live through it all. One thing about being here in Seoul is it's a place that shreds your arrogance. I mean it: if you think you're hot shit wherever you come from you're nothing here. Maybe you have a great product or a sharp mind or a fantastic way with people: it all has little worth here unless you can adapt it to the local market and people. Lately I've done what seems in the West to be a crazy thing: I applied momentum theory and trend analysis to the hedge fund indices. This is preposterous, of course, because hedge funds (almost by definition) do not trend all that much, and to buy them based on those ideas makes little sense. But, here they like trend-watching and, to some degree, trend-following so I made a presentation based on it. The locals seem to have taken to it. Forget steady returns, non-correlation and all the other high-fallutin' talk, give 'em a trend!

Then there's the food here. You know, I really, really like Korean food. I like the variety, the (bottomless) sidedishes, the service (the smiles and the complimentary food) and the incredible speed at which it is served. It even makes a steak dinner (except the ones from my parents' wood-fueled backyard grill) pale in comparison. I've even learned to like a few foods I didn't warm up to much initially:

Chapchae/glass noodles,t hey just had a weird texture
오징어/oh-jing-eo (cuttle-fish), I love the stuff now
미역국/mi-yeok-gook (kelp soup), my wife had a ton of this after both kids (traditional post-natal meal) and now I like it too
삼 겹살/sam-gyup-sal (3-layer fat pork) and it's cousin from Jeju Island 오겹살 (5-layers!), it was just too fatty before, but now it's no problem
소주/soju, it used to make me puke, now it's like water.
폭탄주/pok-tan-joo, soju or whisky shot in a glass of beer, used to make me really drunk and get me sick...not as much at all now
양주/yang-joo (whiskey), it's still not my fav, but I can down it with the guys
산 낙지/san-nak-ji (living octopus), ya, I even had the swimming kind; the first time I had octopus was in Osaka in them little breaded balls...never all that enthused about a slab on sushi, but get them squirming around and I'm all over it.
hmmmmmm...lots of drinking examples there...

But some foods are still too much for me:

두부/doo-boo (tofu), miso soup is ok, but if the stuff is in chunks I still can't go near it
순대/soon-day, let's see...what's not to like about blood and noodles boiled in pig guts? Lots, I say.
냉면/naeng-myoun, those cold noodles put me off...I keep thinking they are old and spoiled.

Yusheng just asked me about how to dial here, so I thought it might make sense for travellers or newbies to Korea (I know I needed a lesson when I got here). Thus, here is the Directions on How to Phone People within/from Seoul, Korea:

To start, there are 2 kinds of phones, landline (starting with 02) and cell (starting with 010, 011, 016, 017, 018 and 019).

When calling 02 from an 02 phone you just dial the last 7 or 8 digits after the 02. E.g., 02-3775-1317 becomes 3775-1317.

When calling a cell from an 02 you have to dial the whole sequence: 019-385-1317 is 019-385-1317.

When calling an 02 from a cell you need to include the 02 as well: 02-3775-1317 is still 02-3775-1317.

When calling a cell of the same prefix as the originating cell you can just use the last digits: calling 019-385-1317 from 019-3775-1317 can be shortened to just 385-1317. But, if you put the 019/prefix on as well there is no problem at all.
When calling long distance from any line in Korea the easiest (albeit most expensive) way is 001- countrycode-blah-blah. There are other ways as well, but this is easiest.

UPDATE: Now that you have that...there are different profixes for outside Seoul as well: Kyunggi-do is 031, Koje-do is 055, Pusan is 051...just treat them as you would a cell phone call if you're dialing from out of town, and drop them (just like you do the '02' in Seoul) if you're in town calling a landline.

When calling Korea from elsewhere callers need to add the country code (82) and drop the first '0'...02-3775-1317 becomes 82-2-3775-1317.
The safest way is to call with all prefixes except landline=>landline where the 02 is dropped in all cases.

Simple, eh?

Pitter-patter, time to get at 'er. (Kind of cockney accent for time to work.)

The Princess and the Pencil; and About the Subways Here

Snappy title, eh? I was getting ready to study some Korean this afternoon (slow day) and wanted a pencil (as I often screw it up) so I rifled through my desk for one to no avail. Then I looked in the supply cupboard; none that I could see. Finally, I asked our officegirl (that's what they're called here...ok?) for one. She found an unsharpened one in the same cupboard I just searched (duh!).

While I looked for a pencil-sharpener she got out her trusty Exact-o knife and started whittling. Not the bold, deep cuts that I used to make when doing the same thing when I was in a fix for a pencil, she did gradual, honing, precise slices until it was a perfect cone. Proving once again that all you need in an Exact-o and duct tape.

Oh ya, and why the Princess remark in the title? Our gal is from 공주/Gong-joo (princess) an actual city south of Seoul.


Why bother with a pencil-sharpener when you can use an Exact-o knife?

I have another memory of an Exact-o, too: thanks to Manchester Mike. When we were treeplanting I was sitting in a box with another box over me (this was like 14 years ago, I don't sit in boxes much anymore) and throwing grapefruit pieces at him. Well, he lost it and came at my little 'fort' with his knife...as I tried to throw the box off myself and escape he put a gash in one of my fingers enough to require stitches (to the bone, man!) but we were too far out of town to bother getting them. Well, Mike and I are still friends (somehow) but that day always haunts me.

And, for the get-together on Saturday a newbie to the subway system was wondering how it works here. Here's my reply email (below). Seoul's subways are tooooo simple. There are maps of the entire system, each line, all of the exits and even all of the stairways and platforms all over the place (on the trains, on the platforms, near the tickets) so if you get lost here once that should be the only time in your life.

Every line in Seoul is numbered. There are 8 city lines now plus Incheon line and #9 is under construction. All maps have the lines noted in a legend and they are also color-coded (Line 6 is brown, Line 5 is purple) and MOST of the maps have the same colors on them (although some unofficial ones have different colors, just to screw with you, it seems).

Many stations have transfers, it's free to move between lines (and bus <-> subway <-> bus <-> bus also if you have a T-money card, available at all stations) and each transfer is clearly marked in the hallways and they have a special announcement on in the cars to let you know that a transfer is coming up.

As for exits, all of them are numbered and clearly marked...they have a number inside a circle on the signs. The station with the most exits is Dongdaemoon Stadium with a whopping 14, Hyehwa, where we are going, has just 4. When you get off the train take a look at the map on the platform and see where to go to get out at the right place.


Ok, back to my studying.

Monday, October 18, 2004

Pics from Yeouido

I remember an commercial for B.C. Tel (British Columbia Telephone, now Telus as of the merger) where a gal was jogging with a futuristic helmet on. She was talking with her friend about what to buy her mom for her birthday, then spotted the perfect gift. She took a picture with the helmet and sent it to her friend. The year was 1994 and all of this seemed curiously possible. The marketing gurus based in on the notion of 'intenders': that there are consumers out there who are so ahead of the curve that they are looking for things that don't even exist yet, and they fully intend to buy them as soon as they come out. Of course, in Korea the cycle from intender to buyer should be as short as possible (measured in nanoseconds).

Anyways, this is what I thought of when I snapped this pic and emailed it to a friend's cell phone...the immediate response: "Wow, let's go there tonight!" (Usually it's priced at 6,500 - 8,000 won a head, so 4,900 saves the price of a bottle of soju!) Nothing like instant message and gratification. Makes you wonder where things are headed.


Get yer discount pork right here!

Also saw, later, after it got dark, a pretty wild looking car. It's a Smart Fortwo Coupe Brabus.The car company is Smart (think it's part of Daimler-Chrysler); the model is Fortwo (get it? for-two!); it's a coupe; and Brabus is an after-market customizer of luxury cars (looks like they do a lot of Mercedes). Looks like they'll be sold in Canada too, but the prices are a little steep: the Japanese models start at over 2,000,000 yen (about 19,000USD)--especially for a 2-seater. But you really can't beat the street cred.


The Brabus Smart Fortwo Car!


But for about 8,000USD you could have this Matiz...and fit an extra 2-3 people in it.

Speaking of bragging rights, which would you like to be seen on:


Your run-of-the-mill red bike.


Wow, a rare specimen...a red trike!


Fancy pizza delivery bike (note the rollbar in case of severe accident).


The old-reliable, complete with a snappy blue cargo rack.


Or this crotch-rocket/rice-burner?


Finally, the piece-de-la-resistance...the red Honda Aspencade.

The guy with the Aspencade also has a Harley, I think, cuz I also see one parked in the same space some days. (One has to wonder if red is the preferred color for things with 2 wheels here.)

Crap, time to get at it here. Til tomorrow...

Sunday, October 17, 2004

Collateral and Hookah Hill in Itaewon

No, it's not what you think. A hookah is an Arab smoking pipe a thinga-ma-jiggy (um, not to PC of me, but no idea what to call it) and the hill was the incredibly steep stairs we had to scale to get up to Ali Baba, a Middle Eastern restaurant in Itaewon. (Not the notorious Hooker Hill where your climb is interrupted by working ladies trying to entice you into their lair.)

More on that later. First, I saw Collateral yesterday in a theatre. Sure, the 8,000 won (7USD) it costs was more than a bootleg copy of the DVD (which was available in Korea before it came to theatres here), but it was worth it. Michael Mann is a great director (especially men and guns, but not so well directing women, as Jordan pointed out). Heat was fantastic and based in L.A. as well, and Collateral was quite good too.

The one problem with it was I had seen all of the trailers and interviews and knew what the plot was, and even the ending 'surprise'; so it seemed like I had already seen it before...but still the action was good. Also like Heat (which I saw last on the bus on the way to Geoje-do) , some of the scenes were in Koreatown--I thought it was just subtitles at first, but it was actually neon signs in Hanguel. Cool. There were even Koreans in the plot. I remember when Japan was at its apex and Japanese were in every movie's plot: Die Hard, Rising Sun, Black Rain...and now Korea is getting there--of course Team America (one I have yet to see, but apparently will not be shown here) is probably not the best portrayal of Korea and Die Another Day had a fair bit of backlash from both Koreas.

Anyways, here's a shot for you: as reported, many urinals here have little pics and paintings to look at while gentlemen do their business. The theatre was no exception.


My view while doing business in Sinchon.

On the way back home I snapped this pic of some spraypainting on the road...a rather strange sight.


Um, did a dog or something die here? Where's CSI?

And some more graffiti in the subway station (well, just defacing, not permanent stuff) to add to my collection.


Someone doesn't like this gal. (Another of the rare graffiti cases I've seen in Seoul.)

On to the hookah. Andrea's bud, Jordan, was in town for the weekend so I met him in Itaewon for a brew or two. Lo and behold, Roy (who I met months back) was there as well, quite a surprise. Also there was Jordan's friend Kelly. Jordan's from Toronto (or The Centre of the Universe, as we Vancouverites call it) and is part Scottish but that didn't stop him from picking up some of the tab at the bar...maybe Korea is rubbing off on him. Sometimes it's weird hanging with Canadians now because it's always Dutch pay...I've gotten used to the "I'll-pay-here, you-get-the-next-one" thing so much it's odd to go back to the old ways. Anyhoo, Kelly is from Milwaukee and been here just 2.5 months--I noted that she has 2 weeks until she gets to the "I hate Korea" stage...but she seems pretty entranced by the place, we'll see. Roy is a Brit/Englishman, but I understand that his ancestors may have inter-bred with Scots (of which I have some in myself, so this is not totally non-PC of me).

After the suds Roy took us up, waaaay up, to the Ali Baba and we had some Vanilla hookah and coffee and tea. Not bad stuff. Ramadan is in full swing now so no booze served, but this was a good way to mellow on a Sunday evening.


Kelly and the Hookah


Yul Brenner, I mean Jordan, puffin' on the hookah.


Roy and his hookah.

Why no pic of me? No idea...but I did have the camera. I also didn't get a shot of Kelly puffing...that just seems a little to risque for this site.

Ok, you all know my fetish with Korean bathrooms. Here is the latest installment: straight from the Ali Baba.


Ali Baba Combi-Can...Ladies, please don't bump the men as you walk by.


You want me to turn that to flush? Ewwwww! Why can't they get one of them laser urinals in here?

Ok, that's enough for now. Time to start my Monday. Everyone coming to the VT Meeting on Saturday, I have directions up on the site now.

Saturday, October 16, 2004

The Koreans Rocked Seoul

As I said yesterday, I was thinking of going to see these guys on the weekend, and I did. They were playing at Daehang-ro Live Theatre; a small venue, but it was very cool. Well, not cool in temp...someone turned off the a/c just before the band got on stage. (They have a Korean site, a U.K./English one and a message board, too!)


Cover of the program...little shiny.


Yahoo! They all signed it! (Even Christ, the drummer.)


The Koreans doing their thing.


Oliver is Mr. Tambourine man.


Henry (a real crowd-pleaser, but not in any of the promo pics) whips the audience into a frenzy!


The camera-shy bassist, Robert, finally in a pic.


Check it out: one in CK jean skirt, the other in CK jeans; both in wide-striped shirts. Also saw 2 other gals on the bus with the same look (wish now that I had snapped their photo, too).

The songs were cool...not bad for their own stuff. Manchester Mike would have liked them. (His Dad saw the Rolling Stones in a tiny concert when they were just starting out.) They did their set and then a Korean singer (whose voice reminded me of Alanis Morissette) did 3 songs. Then an actor (김경룡/Kim Kyoung Ryong) got up on stage and talked about himself (he was in Bunshinsaba and other Korean movies) and then he asked if people wanted to come up on stage and dance with the band. (All this was in Korean, mind you.) One Korean guy got up there and then no one else braved volunteering. Then the guy (Mr. Kim) set his sights on me (in the 3rd row, damn!) and said, "Hey, what about this 외국인아저씨?" Oh ya, that's me, the middle-aged foreigner. Ok, what the heck. A girl also raised her hand.

Then Mr. Kim asks me (in English now, this was the only English he spoke): "Where are you from?" But the accent was so brutal I had no idea what he said...and replied, "James."

"Hahaha, I didn't even ask the foreigner his name?!" "Oh ok, Cay-na-da" (Koreans pronounce Canada that way and write it like 캐나다.)

Then he asked if I spoke Korean well. I answered with my well-rehearsed, "아니요/ah-ni-yo (no)." Then everyone let out a gasp (really quite comical, actually).

Next he enquired "Oh so you are good at 'listening' to Korean?" (He actually said listening, which was a dead giveaway for me to figure out the whole sentence.) I answered, "예/ye (polite yes)." And then some blah blah blah and I kind grabbed the mic and said, "가자kaja! (let's go!)" and off we went. Some music started and we three were to dance on the stage for fame and glory. Great. Let me just say that I dance a lot better after you've had a few drinks.


There I am using my perfect 'listening' Korean to dazzle the crowd.


There I am dancing...and now you know why I was shy to get up there.


More shaking of the Great White Whale.

Anyways, I got 3rd prize: a shirt (below). I really like it...it's black so it's slimming on my already slim body (ya, right...).


My free shirt!

Now all I have to do to make it a perfect night is for The Koreans to make it big and I can sell this program on Ebay!

Friday, October 15, 2004

The North Koreans are Coming?!?!?!

Man, what a place. The building P.A. just went off and some dude was talking and then there was this air raid siren then more talking. The thing is, you could hear the same siren coming from other buildings, too. Then a jet (or missile or something) went overhead. Gees! The North Koreans are at it! They're testing missiles over Seoul or maybe even attacking! But no one budged from their seats.

I asked a co-worker that the heck was going on. He replied, "민방위 훈련/min-bang-wee hoon-ryun (Civil Defense Drill)." Ok, that's fine. More planes are cracking across the sky and the P.A. has some sort of info-radio show on now...How exciting!

Thursday, October 14, 2004

The Koreans are Coming! The Koreans are Coming!

Just heard that this U.K. bad will be in Seoul playing this weekend: tonight, Saturday and Sunday. I took a look the their site and downloaded their single...sounds pretty good. Reminds me of my ol' bud Mike back in Parksville, he's from Manchester and loves this stuff (although he usually listens darker stuff sometimes). It's really quite strange, the guy left the U.K. when he was 3 years old, but he keeps the accent intact. I thought me might have unlearned it over the years (especially since it manages to make large, drunk bullies enraged) but, alas, no.

I may make my way to one of these concerts, we'll see. They'll be at the 'live theatre' which, I believe, is right off the main drag near Exit 2 of Hyehwa Station (Line 4).


Look! It's The Koreans!?!??!

Man, even looking at this pic reminds me of Manchester Mike...he sported a shaggy do like the second guy from the right for most of his high school days.

T-Minus 7 Days Until Yusheng

The countdown to my next bud coming here from overseas has officially begun. Yusheng will be here next Friday (just in time for the weekend and the super-fabulous VT (Virtual Tourist) get-together we have planned on Saturday). He has a blog, too and will chronicle his antics here as well as the other stops on his Asia-tour.

I've already shown his pic to the office girl and she says he's a regular dreamboat...so this should be an interesting time.


The studly Yusheng.

Also this weekend, another guy from Pusan (who knows Andrea who was here 2 weeks ago) is up in Seoul. I just got him a room at my fav hotel here in Yeouido. I have no idea what this guy is like, except that Andrea says he's ok and he's into finance as well...so we should get along pretty well.

Finally, before I get to my day-job, here's a pic of Minaz (the last one, I promise) and a bar-gal at The Outsider. Don't they look lovely?


One more pic of Minaz.

Wednesday, October 13, 2004

Pics from Minaz and Learning Korean (Finally)

As you know, Minaz is back in Canada enjoying fresh air and over-priced shopping. He sent me a few pics of when he was here (somehow none of his travels to the many beaches of Boracay or Thailand made it to my mailbox) so I thought I'd share them with you, if I may.


The Big Flag in Yeouido Park (Minaz and Andrea somewhere there in the plaza).


Minaz striking a pose on a raft in Thailand (the dude in the yellow helmet was paddling for his life and has much ire for Minaz stealing the spotlight).


The expansive Han River from 양화대교/yanghwa daegyo (Yangwha Bridge).


A Yongsan market...find Waldo, I mean Jess.


Namdaemoon, an island of the past in a sea of Hyundais.


Namsan looks pretty tiny here.


World Cup Stadium, home of F.C. Seoul.


The green is the 'water' that separates Yeoui-'island' from the rest of the world.


Lotte Castle Empire is almost finished; Lotte Castle Ivy is on the way (you can see the 63 Building back there as well).


Make way for new apartments...if you look closely you can see two cranes on the roof of the middle one--tearing it down. (The two towers down the road are Trump World II.)

And a couple from me:


Perfect day for a game of pickup at lunch (notice the suits).


Pork, pork and more pork. A new restaurant...and since I'm a foreigner we got 4 free beers, too.

Actually, as a foreigner in Yeouido I get a fair bit of free food. At the 삼짐/samgim restaurant the owner once gave me kimchi-pajun (sort of a pancake) and a super-sized omlette with my meal. I met the owner of the Wa-Bar down the street and he offered me 'service' when I go there next. I also met the owner of the Pasta Bar (named Buitoni) on the first floor of The Outsider building while out drinking...he gave my group free salad, 4 glasses of wine and 2 coffees. Not bad, eh? Of course at the foreigner places I get no special treatment; which is why I don't frequent them very much.

Now for learning Korean. I've been at it since the summer. I already knew hanguel (Korean alphabet/writing) but actually started to learn the language now. It's tough, though, as I don't really have a base to work from...until now, maybe. I'm starting to pick words out of conversations now...I can't really answer much in Korean (except for simple idioms and joke-lines), but it's coming along. This morning it dawned on me that I know 6 important words that I wanted to get down soon: 어떻게/eo-ddeo-kay (how); 왜그래/wei-geu-rai (why); 언제/eon-jai (when); 누구/noo-goo (who); 무엇/moo-eot (what); and 어디/eo-di (where). Cool, now I can understand and answer (maybe) questions. Like on the street, I was with a bud and a guy asked him "와바가어디에요?/wa-ba-ga eo-di-say-yo? (Where is Wa-Bar?)" I pointed to it and answered, "저기요/jeo-gi-yo (Over there)" before the Korean could answer...hahaha. He was flabbergasted: I had broken the code! Well, it was a little victory.

Tuesday, October 12, 2004

My Brother; over 55,000 words; and Tom Green's Blog

I have a theory about Korean movies (and please correct me if I'm off on this one): someone always dies. The only corollary to that is someone may die before the 'start' of the movie, but it is always a big part of the plot. Love stories, police stories, war stories (duh!) and even just social/family stories always have a death in it--followed up normally by the female relatives flailing their arms on the coffin/ground/body yelling "어떻게/eo-ddeo-kay!? (How?!)" and "왜그래/wei-geu-rai!? (Why!?)" and the male relatives and friends clenching their fists and plotting revenge...which continues the cycle. 우리형/woo-ri hyung (My (Older) Brother) is no exception. I had to wait a while for it, but eventually this film proved my theory again.


Typical Korean movie: someone dies.

If you're looking for new Korean movies to see in theatres that have subtitles check out this site, it sometimes has some good ones.

On another topic, I see I am now over 55,000 words for this blog in the scant 4 months I've been at it. Is 150,000 words a year a lot of writing? Hmmmm...that's about 410 words a day. Yikes! That's a few more than I thought.

Finally, I saw Tom Green on The Tonight Show recently and finally took a look at his site and blog. He's originally Canadian, you know, eh? (Like many entertainers...looking to blog on that topic soon, too). It's kind funny, actually. Take a listen to the Audioblog...this guy's a bit of a hoot.

And what post would be complete without a bit of Konglish. I got this from a ream (500 sheets of paper) wrapper in our office. Never did read it that carefully before...never knew it has such hallucinogenic properties.


Perfect....for....high?

UPDATE: some funny pics from Joel's Blog here.

Monday, October 11, 2004

Shopping and Banks

Just back from lunch and wanted to jot this down.

There's a gal in Yeouido I normally buy ties from. Not expensive ones, she sells them on the street at lunch for 5,000 won (4.50USD) for poly, 10,000 for silk (I get them for 4,000/8,000 though). Don't get me wrong, they are nice ties...I'd say on par with the ones I paid over $100 for in Canada (and I worked 3 years in men's wear so maybe I have an idea of what is what).

Anyhoo, another tie seller is in the neighborhood now so I checked out his wares. Starting price: 5,000 for silk, 3,000 for poly! And some of them are exactly the same brands and styles. Holy crap! (Ok, it's just a couple of bucks, but the magnitude is terrific.) I picked out 2 poly ones and he said 6,000 for both. I said I was buying two; he insisted; I reiterated, h knocked it down to 5,000; done. (I do all my negotiating in Korean, too, which likely helps.

Just goes to show you no matter how good you may have it someone is always ready to undercut you here.

And, a small note, it doesn't take a PIN (personal ID number) to put cash INTO the bank machines here. I remember you always had to enter a PIN in Canada for any transaction; but here as long as you're only depositing then just the card will do. Interesting.

Graffiti, Playboys, Street Sandwiches and Bi-ta 500

Let's start out with the shock factor. Below is the ONLY piece of English-language graffiti I think I've ever seen in Korea. Sure, I've seen a couple of Hanguel-tags and some where kids have written their names with magic markers on a wall or something (but even these are very rare), but this one stands out. I saw it in the 지하보도/jihabodo (underground sidewalk) near Daebang Subway Station (Line 1). Fascinating...and look at that script...


Wow, Korean graffiti in English!

Last night I took a trip to Sinchon to meet a bud...and saw this ad. It says: 제비표페인트/jay-bi-pyo-paint. Jebi can mean many things, though, such as swallow (the bird...man, how can you think that?): Swallow Paint? Or, if it's 제비꽃/jay-bi-ggot (like goat) then it's a violet (flower = 꽃): Violet Paint? Or, my favorite, 제비 can also mean playboy (or playgirl: 여자제비/yeoja-jaybi): Playboy Paint? Wonder which one it is. (And, ya, it's also my initials...so you think I'm a bird or flower??)


JB??

After working out (buff guy that I am) I saw my old friend working (on) the street for his restaurant. This guy owns Wingswing in Yeouido...it's a great place for western food around here. He and his wife are fluent in English and they lived in New York and Atlanta before coming back to Korea. I had a Philly Cheese Sandwich as a decadent end to my day and workout. Mmmmmmm.


You want a Philly Cheese Sandwich?

Of course you can't be decadent all the time. Everyday for the last while I've been taking these things: 비타/bi-ta 500. They also come as 비타 800 and 비타 1000 (in typical Korean one-up-manship style). It says it has the vitamins of 20 lemons, 60 apples and 15 oranges in it (or maybe it's 'or', not sure). Anyways, I don't get enough fruit over here so maybe this will stave off scurvy.


Mmmmm...Bita oh-baek!

Sunday, October 10, 2004

Adultery = Divorce in Korea

I was chewing the fat with a friend of mine yesterday...he studied law here and had some pretty interesting insights into the Korean system. I had heard that adultery is illegal in Korea and that about one-third of the women in prison here are there for that reason...but that the men do not face time if they are implicated. Made sense to me, as it's a man's world here. As it turns out, I wasn't quite right.

Here's the deal: if a married person (in Korea this is usually a man) has an affair and is caught then the both of them can go to jail for four (if a high-priced lawyer is used) to six (if not) months. Not only that, but as soon as the adultery charges are laid divorce preceedings begin and if found guilty the couple are automatically divorced at the end of the trial. Many younger folk are up in arms about this: they claim that the punishment is too harsh. I figure that jail time for adultery is a little steep, too. Wouldn't it be better to put drunk drivers (I know there are some here) in those cells?

But, as with so many things, this is not as it seems. For one, the only person that can lay adultery charges is the wife; and it's supposed that about 1% of wives actually do this because of the social stigma--and the fact that they'll be divorced if it's true...although with a conviction she'd get more out of the guy in alimony.

As well, the burden of proof is something like that in a capital case. Get this: if the two are just fooling around then it's not adultery. There needs to be complete, um, penetration (sorry, trying to make this as G-rated as possible) in, um, the spot. Just oral fixations are not enough. Also, there needs to be physical evidence: sperm, to be exact. So if nothing, um, 'big' happens then no crime. (Obviously, as you may have guessed, if the gal remains a virgin then the both of them are Scot-free...which seems a little odd, to say the least.)

Here's an anecdote: wife suspects an affair; she finds out the two are in a hotel together; she alerts the police who go there and enter the room; they find him and the girlfriend naked in the room. No arrest. Why? Well, they were just talking and they had their clothes off because it was so hot...no penetration, no physical evidence, no case. The wife didn't give up, though--she gathered 'evidence' from many used rooms and won her case and got her divorce and a big severance package. (Why the husband wasn't scared straight after the police raid I'll never figure out.)

So, if you think about it...this law is not really AGAINST adulterous relations (it's bloody hard to prove and limited in scope) but perhaps it's FOR divorce. The couple get it automatically, and since many Korean men have girlfriends an industrious wife who wants to cut loose can use this law to get what she wants: away from him, more money and a chance to put him and the girlfriend in the clink. However, I think criminal charges are pretty severe: it's a moral problem but not exactly up there with assault, burglary and murder.

It's just another part of Korea that is incredibly different from the West. (Oh ya, and if what we know is true, Clinton would not have been touched by this law.)

Saturday, October 09, 2004

Never a dull moment...

One thing about Seoul is you never know what will happen. I had a meeting near Namdaemoon on Friday and did my usual Bus 263 to the Namdaemoon Subway station then a quick hop to Seoul Station to my meeting place. I like this route because I can do a little shopping on the way (more on that later).

As luck would have it, as I was returning from my meeting I just missed a train and was greeted by this on the platform: about 10-20 protesters in wheelchairs chained together and slowly entering the subway cars and parading down their length; and about 100-150 riot police, just in case one of them paraplegics tries something, I guess. This is the scene as it unfolded for me.


Something going on here...


Lots of police...some guys in wheelchairs too...looks like they're chained together...


Yup, there they go...right through the train..


More of the chain-gang...


Of course you can never have too many riot police.

I ended up walking to Namdaemoon instead...they shut down the whole of Line 4 with their antics. While there I got a few undershirts (usually 3,300 won each, but I get 4 for 10,000 won--about 9USD), plus a couple of spiffy dress shirts. The shirts were a lovely blue and a windowpane on while...very British in appearance and a steal at 13,000 won (11USD) for both. I would have bought more, but there aren't many in my size. And on that, I take a 17.5/18 neck here and a 16/16.5 in Canada; also a 38 pant here and a 34/35 in Canada (maybe smaller). Seems an inch is not exactly an inch here--keep that in mind if you buy clothes here: ALWAYS try them on until you know your size in all articles.

I've actually been on a bit of a binge lately. It's amazing how much money you can have when you don't get tanked every night. Got myself 4 other dress shirts, 3 casual ones (just like Polo twills, no less), two pair of dress pants and about 5-6 ties in the last few weeks. Total bill: about 125,000 won (110USD).

Back to protests: here's another one starting up today...they got the Korean drum band out there making noise as they tune up the microphones. Should be a good one...too bad I'll miss it (ya, right).


Get ready for another protest!

Then there's the smog. Looks like we've got some inversion again cuz I could hardly see the 63 Building from Mapo Bridge.


Smoggy 63 Building

And what batch of photos would be complete without someone sleeping on the street or subway. Here's the latest, the guy dressed like me!! What's he doing here? Questions that will be left unanswered unless he reads my blog and posts the answer in the comments.


Funny, he doesn't look homeless or drunk.

Thursday, October 07, 2004

Minaz has Left the Building (for Good)

There he goes...after 2 weeks in Seoul split up by a week in Boracay and 2 more in Thailand, Minaz is now back in Canada...just in time for Thanksgiving. I got to admit I was pretty excited to see him come out here and the times in the bars were pretty fun...however he also reminded me of home a little too much and how much I miss my family there. Also, he was staying at my (studio) apartment, so I had to watch it when I stepped out of bed (as his was right next to it...on the floor). The guy had amazing stamina to go out every night too. I can do that for a time, but not really while working everyday as well.

A few things I'll remember from this trip:

(i) Minaz found a new pronunciation for 불고기/bulgogi: 'boogie boogie'. Nice one.
(ii) If a girl touches her nose in the club it may be a signal for her friend to come and save her from the moron trying to dance with her (that moron may have been me).
(iii) If you visit a girl at Osan Air Base make sure you don't stay there past curfew or you and she will be arrested; you'll be escorted off the base and find the only strip bar in Korea; and she'll get a talking-to by her C.O.
(iv) The song that encapsulates this tour is "Got What You Need" by Eve...I had no idea what the lyrics were until just now.
(v) If you get a number like 02-678-1678 it may be fake.


Mmmmmmmmm....Kalgooksoo! Minaz's last meal here.


Minaz is on da bus...and my thumb is in the picture. Dooough!

Ok, busy day. Later.

Wednesday, October 06, 2004

K-League Game, Parade and K-Spam

Yesterday I finally made it to a K-League game in the World Cup Stadium in Mapo-Gu...it was pretty cool, but nothing like the throngs of people that I saw on T.V. for the 2002 World Cup games. For one thing, there were:


...lots of empty seats.

But it was still good. On the first kick-offs of the halfs there were massive fireworks, which was a little firghtening at first (North Korea with Nukes and all). I tried to take a pic of the actual explosions, but missed it...dooough!


Boom!....Beware the fog.

That fog, along with the humidity (68%) made it look like a cloudbank rolled in. Then in the stands there was more fire(works).


Fire in the stands? Nope, just fireworks.

In the end the home team, F.C. Seoul, beat those guys from Incheon United 1:0. Yay!

UPDATE: Oh ya, forgot: when we got to the stadium we couldn't find the ticketbooth, but happened upon a guy who had a whack of tickets that he got through his company (he paid 6,000 won for these 8,000 won seats). He had some extra so offered them to us for 5,000 won...not each: for BOTH. Oh yeah! Add on some noodles and Pocari Sweat and we were still up 4,000 won. We're making money!

The next day I heard some Korean traditional music in the street: which, here, could mean anything from a grand open(ing) of a business to street-cleaning. As it happens, it was a bowing parade of about 40 guys in yellow jackets and (a la Monica Lewinski) knee-guards taking 3 steps, bowing right down on the ground then taking 3 more. The signs (I imagine, as they 'radioactive symbol' was on them) likely said something like No Nukes in Korea. Interesting.


Bowing for Columbine!

As I reported earlier, Spam is a big thing here. I just got spam of a different sort also (well, I get a lot of it, but this one was particularly interesting. I've seen many of these from Nigeria and other dodgy places, but this was the first from my adopted home.


Subject: ACKNOWLEDGE MY MAIL From: "jun"
Date: Thu, 07 Oct 2004 03:48:26 +0200

Mr. Jun Cheng,
Bank Of Korea,
16-1, Yoido-dong,
Youngdungpo-gu,
Seoul 150-873.

Dear Friend

I am Jun Cheng a manager of bills/exchange at the foreign remittance department of Hanivitbank. In my department, we discovered an abandoned sum of $44,700,000.00 (Forty Four Million, Seven Hundred Thousand United State Dollars only) in an account that belonged to one Late Mr Andrew Phillips an American, who died along with his entire family, on November 1996, in a ghastly plane crash. Since we got the information about his death, we have been expecting his next-of-kin to come over and file a claim as next of kin over his money because we can not release it unless somebody applied for it as next of kin or relation to the deceased as indicated in our banking guidelines.

Unfortunately, nobody has come forward to claim this money. It is based on this that some officials in my department and I have decided to establish a cordial business relationship with you, hence by contacting you. We want you to present yourself as the next of kin to Late Mr Andrew Phillips, so that the funds can be remitted into your account. Moreover, we do not want the money to go into the government account as unclaimed bills. The banking law and guidelines here stipulates that any account abandoned or is dormant for a period of years, is deemed closed and all money contained therein forfeited to the government treasury account.

Now, it is being speculated that the above sum will be transferred into the government account as an unclaimed fund on or before the end of this financial quarter of 2004, when nobody come forward to lay claims. The reason for requesting your assistance, is occasioned by, the fact that the deceased (Late Mr Andrew Phillips) was a foreigner, and we have access to his detailed bio data which you will hold as a weapon to present yourself as the next of kin to Late Mr Andrew Phillips.

The mode of sharing after a successful transfer of the money into your account, shall be 70% to my colleagues and I, for the role you will be expected to play in this deal, we have agreed to give you 25% of the total sum and 5% for the expenses we are going to encounter by the two parties in the course of this transaction.

Therefore, you are expected to reply this letter indicating your readiness and interest to participate in this business. After receiving your reply, you will be communicated to with the exact steps to take. I expect your urgent response and I shall contact you for further discussion on this matter, to enable us conclude this transaction urgently without any delay or hitch. Please treat this business proposal as strictly confidential for security reasons considering my official position in Bank of Korea.

Personal Regards,

Mr. Jun Cheng

There were a few things that tipped me off with this email:

(i) Bank of Korea is located in Chung-gu, not Yeouido. I know the block he states as his address...it's not there. (Plus, the postal code is off a bit, too.)
(ii) 44 mil is not the kind of sum you put in an email to someone...that kinda dough necessitates a personal visit, does it not?
(iii) the English was perfect (a dead give-away if I ever saw one).

However...this opportunity may be too good to pass up...

Tuesday, October 05, 2004

Friends looking for Jobs and Single Women Living Alone

Things happen in bunches, eh? Three friends of mine recently started job-hunting so I thought I could get some feedback from my lovely readers on what they should do:

(i) Paul (24): He's Dutch and spent 6 months in Seoul doing a practicum at the Fraser Suites in Jong-no then went back this summer to The Hague (or somewhere around there) to finish his double bachelors in Business and Tourism/Hospitality. Basically, with this degree he can manage a 5-star hotel given a few years of experience. He's fluent in English and Dutch, knows some French (not sure if fluent, at least working knowledge) and a bit of Korean. He's outgoing, personable and excited about coming back to Korea to continue his career.

(ii) Mr. X (mid-30s): He's still with his firm, but a corporate action (merger/reorg) may lead to him needing to take a look around soon, so he's got the feelers out already. He has Engineering degrees from his home of England but has spent many years in Asia working in Korea, Singapore, Malaysia as a sales manager for large mechanical/technical items like oil-rig pumps and valves and such. He knows his way around Asia and knows what it takes to make contacts and get contracts.

(iii) Andrea (early 30s): She's totally into Seoul now and would like to get a teaching job up here early in the New Year when her contract in Pusan. She has a Liberal Arts Degree (bachelor) and really likes teaching. In Seoul she'd like to do more in the corporate setting and already has some experience teaching groups and individuals business English. She's bright, engaging and has a wealth of information on English and imparts it well to her students.

So, if you know of anything that can help these three please let me know via email or comments. Thanks.

On another topic, I started to read Grant's blog...it's pretty cool. He had this article in it on how unmarried 30ish Korean women seem to be moving out of the parental home for a bit of freedom...who knows where this will go, but it's one of the many things in Korea that is glacially changing its culture and mores.

Super-Bonus Extra Addition: thanks to Gyopo Mike for this hilarious link on our beloved KD (Kraft Dinner).

I'm a Barbie girl, in a Barbie world...

Sometimes I have too much time on my hands. There was an email circulating on Barbie for the various boroughs of Vancouver so I made up these versions earlier this year. Hope you like them (and if you're from there, hope you don't get too offended by them).

Myoung-Dong Barbie:
Is it fake or is it real?: This decked-out Barbie comes with Burberry tartan skirt, shirt, jacket, umbrella gloves, handbag and shoes. Also available in Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Prada versions. She comes with a Foo-Foo Ken-Ssi (Mr. Ken) and loves to sing karaoke in the Norae-bangs, shop til she drops and neck/kiss in the DVD-bangs (DVD-watching rooms)--accessories sold separately. No car, because driving in Myoung-Dong is crazy.

Yeouido Barbie:
Known for its many bars, restaurants and 'uh-um' room salons, this area's edition sports the same duds as Myoung-Dong Barbie, but in skimpier outfits. And no Foo-Foo Ken, he is replaced by up to 10 other male dolls--all named John. Accessories include karaoke machine, bottles of Scotch Blue and Ballentine's Whiskey, beer, soju and plates of anjoo (snacking food, for use while drinking). If you get the speech version she says things like, "Oh, that's very funny.", "Would you like more drink?" and "Oh, I'm saving up for an apartment."

Itaewon Barbie:
Located near the major US Army base in Seoul, she is also known as "tittie-won" Barbie. She can be placed in some of the many additional "settings" (boxes made to look like the inside of establishments) including: 3-Alley Pub, Helios, Gecko's and, of course, Lime Light. She has an English voice version which can say "Hi, you're handsome, let's dance" and "Meet me outside the Hamilton Hotel at 2AM". All of the Ken versions are white guys (some of whom are English teachers, US soldiers and tourists).

Kangnam Barbie:
Yes, the same clothes, but they are ALL real. Kangnam is the highest property value area in Seoul, and the trendiest. This Barbie can be mix and matched with the Yeoulido Barbie (accessories) to get some pocket money, but usually is sold in "Girl's Night Out" sets with Shopaholic Song-Hee, Talent (word for model or singer) Young-Mi and/or Husband-Hunting Hyun-Hee. Kangnam Ken is fashionably decked out in Boss or Armani and drives a BMW 745iL.

Kyunggi-Do Barbie:
Dubbed the "rural Barbie", this Barbie comes with a deed to a rice farm and some pretty tame clothes (lots of pants). Kyunggi Ken is a JaJungMyung delivery-boy (they deliver for restaurants, predominantly simple food like JaJungMyung) and he comes with a moped and helmet, but the helmet should be either: half on his head, in a compartment on the bike or at home (never worn fitted on his head).

JeJu-Do Barbie:
This doll-face hails from the lovely island of JeJu. She has a vast array of bathingsuits and a beach umbrella. Barbie-Uppa (Barbie's dad) is a fisherman or restaurant owner, depending on which version is purchased. JeJu-Ken is also a beachbum, and he comes with the full Baywatch-type package.

UPDATE:
HongDae Barbie:

Staying in a studio away from her prying parental units in the higher education/bar area near Hong-Ik University, this Barbie loves to go out to Hodge Podge, NB and the all-night Kam-ja Tang (potato soup/stew) place where she can have her fix of pork and soju at 5AM. She doesn't have time for a Ken, what with all the times out with her girlfriends (not that kind, get your mind out of the gutter) but she knows that as soon as she nears the mandatory marriage age (of 30) she will have to go on 50 or 100 blind dates with wankers who went to SNU (no offense, those are her words) before settling down for good. Accessories include soju and Heineken beer bottles, a plethora of dresses and many paid of shoes (none of which are 'sensible').

Monday, October 04, 2004

Tip on Doing Business in Korea

I thought it might be a good idea to give you a few pointers about doing business in Korea/with Koreans....but, you know me, I'm a little lazy so I took this site's info and commented on it.

Making Contact
Most Koreans have three names: two given names and a surname. You should feel comfortable asking a person how they would like to be addressed.

Asians tend to be more formal initially. When addressing a new acquaintance use formal titles such as "Mr.","Mrs." or "Dr." High educational attainment is respected throughout Asia. Those with Ph'd degrees are usually addressed as Dr. and then their family name. First or given names are considered personal and are rarely used in business. Wait to be invited to use first names and don't be offended if your host doesn't offer to use these more personal names. Most Korean wives retain their maiden names.
Invited to use first names? Never, never, never use a first name unless the person is much younger and subordinate to you and you've known them for a while. Even then, you need to end with the correct 'ending' to the name (ya, ee...) I made this mistake by calling my wife's boss by his first names...bad idea...but many Koreans are generous and know that many of us foreigners don't know the(ir) rules, but never do it again. It's always safe to call Koreans by last name, first name(s), then si/shi as an honorific.

Speak slowly and clearly but not so slow as to be offensive, as your host may not be fluent in English. Most Koreans understand written English better than spoken English. Use written materials and graphics, whenever possible have these materials translated into Korean. This shows respect for the country and the culture and improves comprehension of the points you are trying to make. If your business is technical it is best to hire an interpreter to help you. Keep in mind in using an interpreter that using your own is usually better than one supplied to you by your host.
Yes, yes yes. Always keep the speed down unless you (i) know that they studied many years abroad and can handle it or (ii) want to confuse them and/or (iii) want to lose the deal. Just because a Korean in agreeing DOES NOT mean he agrees nor does it mean he understands any/everything you're saying.

Although Koreans appear quite westernized it is important to remember that they hold Korean values that are different in certain respects. Kibun, which relates to a person’s mood or state of mind, affects all relationships. To hurt someone’s Kibun causes a loss of dignity. Maintaining harmony is more important than absolute truth.
True. Their relatives are all Korean, they eat Korean food, speak Korean almost exclusively, interact with Koreans in the Korean way....just because you're in front of them does not change their psyche.

Koreans will smile in a variety of situations such as when they are happy, sad, nervous or embarrassed. Don't necessarily assume that a smile denotes acceptance. In certain circumstances it can have many meanings. The Korean sense of humor is often very direct.
Yes. Especially when having to speak English. It doesn't necessarily mean they like you. They may be thinking, "How can I get out of this situation without looking bad?". However, if you know some Korean/they know some English I find Koreans LOVE puns and other 'silly' things (or maybe they're just humoring me).

Public perception and image matter a great deal to Koreans. Representatives of large companies are usually better received initially than those of smaller less well-known companies.
Bigger is better, period.

Try to obtain a formal introduction to make a business contact with Koreans. Korea is a relatively small country and relationships are instrumental in many parts of Korean life. Koreans value introductions and referrals from people they know. Use acquaintances, suppliers, accountants, lawyers or consultants to gain these introductions.
Relationships are EVERYTHING. If you have ANY connection with a business you NEED to use it. No matter that it's your friend's brother-in-law's cousin who is a manager there...get the connection (or contact point, as they call it here).

When seeking an introduction to a large Korean firm, see if it has a subsidiary where your company also has an office. If your subsidiary has dealt with the other firm or managers in the two firms know each other, this can serve as the means to introduce you to your target customer.
Yes, more on the relationships...this is better as it is a business relationship.

It is always very helpful to have a local partner.
Yes. Good luck getting shelf-space in an economy where intense competition is the norm without a self-interested partner.

Agents should be approved by the Korean government.
True, in many industries all participants need government certification. It not be very rigorous and only be a piece of paper to us, but to Koreans it's gold.

Cold calls and letters usually do not work.
Forget it...get a contact point, any contact point and work it.

Schedule meetings with Korean companies before arriving in the country, do not expect to arrive in Korea and then be able to meet with them.
Yes, make your schedule first so that they can prepare their team to meet you and arrange a suitable night out (as is almost always the case here). Many employees/team members might be out of town on business as well and there are different holidays here so to come during Choo-seok week (for example) is a big waste of time because NO ONE will be working.

Before choosing a local partner, research the market extensively to make sure you choose your local partner based on full information. It is advisable to establish relations with several firms in case partnerships break down.
Do as much research as you can, but don't expect full disclosure. Go for shorter-term contracts to start and then extend from there to give yourself elbow-room.

It is best to assign one person to represent your firm on a permanent basis. This allows personal relationships to develop which are critical for business success. This person can verify that work is getting completed. Frequent visits will assure the Korean business that you are committed to them.
Yes. You need someone who will consistently be there for the Korean contingent...Koreans will even follow this person to another firm of similar size so make sure it's a higher-ranking director or shareholder.

The Korean Trade Promotion Corporation (KOTRA) publishes a guide that provides an overview of business information.
KOTRA is ok, but they are government so many of them have little real business experience. Use them as a stepping-stone.

Many South Korean professionals are accustomed to Western customs because they studied or worked overseas. Almost all the businesspeople have some familiarity with Western culture. Government officials however tend to be more traditional and conservative.
Replace 'many' with 'some'. Almost all Koreans do things the Korean way even if on the outside they act Western.

Most South Koreans choose to hold a first meeting in their office. Punctuality is very important. Shaking hands is a common greeting with both men and women; it may be accompanied with a slight nod or bow.
As a seller you cannot be late..buyers in Korea can be late (but not you, of course). Be there on time and (especially the first time) double-check all directions because Seoul is a tough place to get around unless you know Korean or have been there at least once before. ABB = Always Be Bowing.

The exchanging of business cards is very ritualized and important part of a first meeting. The business card should be presented and received with both hands, with the writing facing the receiver. Show respect by reading the card slowly and placing it on the table in front of you. If possible have your cards printed in Korean on one side.
Both hands is ok...but pure Korean way is with the RIGHT hand and the left hand on the right breast, elbow, forearm, wrist or hand (going from less polite to most polite). Both hands is Chinese way and Koreans seem to appreciate your knowing their special way. Place cards either (i) in the order of seating in front of you (good for remembering names too) or (ii) with higher-ranking persons on top in a vertical line in front of you (this is harder as titles are a little different here).

Begin a first meeting with casual conversation about your trip. Do no try to accomplish too much at this first meeting. Koreans need to feel you out and get a sense of your intentions, trustworthiness and objectives.
Take it easy. Don't expect a lot of information on the first meeting. DO NOT take out a due diligence or questionnaire to fill out/have them fill out. You may not be invited back.

Koreans will try to match you with someone of similar rank. Keep this in mind when selecting a representative as it can be very important.
If you want to speak with the CEO then have your CEO or President at the meeting. If you send a 'manager' you will have offended them. If they send their CEO you need to have your highest-ranking director/board member at the meeting as well (even if it's just ceremonious).

Gifts are not required for early meetings. If you have established a relationship through writing or on the telephone, you may want to bring a small token such as a pen or a gift with the company logo. If you meet with a group, bring a gift for the senior person as well as all the subordinates. The senior person’s gift should be different and more expensive than the others. If you receive a gift do not open it in front of the giver.
Instead of a gift, offer dinner or paying for drinks after dinner. Gifts are appreciated (who wouldn't want one?) but it's more of a Japanese thing. If you are closing a deal then a commemorative souvenir might be nice.

Business Hours:
Most businesses are open from 8:30 or 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. on weekdays and from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. of Saturdays.
From November to February government offices close daily at 5:00 p.m.
Banks are open from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. on weekdays and from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. on Saturdays.
Shop hours vary but most are open from 8:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. everyday.
Department stores are open from 10:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. everyday.
This is changing. Some might markets open at 9PM til 5PM, too.

Corporate Structure
Korean companies are dominated by chaebols, which are large business conglomerates, many of which are family owned and operated.
The chaebols are being broken up (by markets, economics and the passage of time) but their lineage is still important for Koreans.

The typical corporation has a chairman of the board at the top. Below the senior level are division chiefs, section chiefs, managers and employees. The corporate structure is heavily influenced by the Japanese model.
Yes.

Negotiation
Koreans consider a person’s character to be just as important as the contract or deal. To be successful you must develop a trusting personal relationship with your business partner. As part of developing this relationship Koreans spend time on business socializing. It is important to accept social invitations and to reciprocate. It may appear at first that business is not a major part of the agenda but of course, it certainly is.
If you can't drink or eat meat (like pork) or seafood you may have a problem doing business here. (Actually, Koreans understand personal and religious preferences, but to do everything like them is best, in the end.) Always try everything they ask you to eat or drink (even twice) and sleep on the plane-ride home.

Koreans prefer group consensus as their decision-making model. The senior person makes the final decision. Koreans tend to be very conservative and risk averse.
Don't try to get a decision from a junior manager. He cannot do anything without his senior's (and his senior's) approval anyways. Just move on to work on the next level (or, better, get your senior to work on his senior).

Aggressive or adversarial negotiations do not work in Korea. Your opposite negotiators may appear on the surface to agree just to keep discussions harmonious. You must give the average Korean time to reach agreement or the deal will never happen. They can appear to be rigid, stubborn and unyielding. You need to be clear about your position. It is best for you as the foreigner never to raise your voice or become visibly frustrated, unless absolutely necessary in the final stages of the negotiation. Remember that in making a decision the Korean businessperson will consider personal relationships and character as well as business.
Yes. And even if nothing happens Koreans will remember that you were a good person and will ask you to bid again later if they have the need or hear of someone looking for your product or service. Relationships here are measured by decades, not months.

Koreans do not like to say “no” directly and want to preserve harmony under all circumstances. You may need to ask several indirect questions to get to the true response.
True. And don't ask the same question many times...work the angles. Sometimes there is a logical reason why they are saying no and it has nothing to do with their original objection...and even when you know it you may think it doesn't make any sense...that's ok.

Avoid the word “win” which implies a one-sided benefit – the goal is harmony so use words like “we would like to receive the contract ” are more appropriate
Koreans as other hard bargainers will seek to gain as many concessions as possible from you.
When I hear a foreigner say "I want to win your business" I tell my boss "He really wants to work/partner with us". He is ALWAYS positive to that kind of language.

If you are asked the same question repeatedly it is to ensure the consistency of the information so no mistakes will occur.
If it's a question of fact or details in an order...not in negotiating necessarily.

Most Koreans are concerned with price over cost efficiency or effectiveness. Usually the top three proposals are invited to a financial review. The winning bid is usually the lowest bid passing the technical review.
Yes, too true, incredibly true. Koreans even have terms where they'd like to renegotiate the lowest bid and take competing bids after the bidding! But, once trust is gained they will return to the well many times and not be as worried about price.

Historically foreign firms have fared best when they work in collaboration with a Korean company.
Never try to go it alone unless you have a cadre of Koreans on staff who have the connections needed to get the job done...you'll be spinning your wheels.

Written contracts should be used in all transactions. Koreans view of contracts is different from the Western view. Koreans see contracts more loosely, believing they allow room for flexibility. Often the rules will change as the situation changes, it is important to be specific about responsibilities. This different view of contracts can be problematic and it is therefore advisable to consider and discuss future situations.
Koreans need contracts for virtually all business dealings, but (yes) they do tend to want to modify them a bit over time depending on circumstances.

If anyone else has any other ideas please let me know (email or in the comments).

VT Meeting in Seoul and John Kerry

Hey, there's a VT meeting/get together in Seoul on October 23rd for all who'd like to attend. Link is here. Already people from the U.S., Canada, China, Singapore, U.K. and Korea (of course).

Found this on another blog. Couldn't help but poke some fun in the tagline.


Kerrinator 3: Rise Against the War Machine

Sunday, October 03, 2004

Sunday...busy--plus: hotels in Yeouido

Today got up later...like 9AM. Did laundry and stuff (excited yet?) and we all took a walk across Yeouido Park to the Teachers' Pension Fund (사립학교교직원연금관리공단/sarip-hakgyo-gyojikwon-yeongeum-kwalligongdan) Building near Yeouido Station. Up on the 20th (top) floor is a little known (it seems) Western buffet restaurant called Seven Springs. The salad bar is pretty stacked (leaning on the carbs, though) and for 12,000 a head (plus 10% VAT) it's a good deal if you're after Western fare. There's another branch in Kangnam, too. I'll have to get more pics from Andrea of the scenery from up there...it's really quite cool; but first, a little Konglish to eat by.


Seven Springs Konglish

And you know my little quirk: I wouldn't want to work in KITC (Korea Investment Trust Company) and have a view of the bathrooms. (Well, you need a telescope to get a good look...) Funny here, it's like they plan the layouts without thinking that another building could go up right next to it.


Seven Springs Peek-a-Boo Bathroom.


Yeouido in all its glory.

After lunch we did inline skating/rollerblading across the river to World Cup Stadium (got to get pics from that as well). Here's one kid...he's low-centred on his training wheels so no matter how fast he pedals he can't get anywhere. We tried to fix his predicament, but he seemed pretty happy the way he was.


Korean boy invents stationary bike...makes millions in health club sales!


Look, I'm so funny!

That night we had Kalbi and went up to the 60th (observation) floor of the 63 (yook-sam) Building and got a look at Seoul at night. If you go up during the day it's 7,000 won a head, but if you go at night there is a little bar there and it costs about 8,000 for a drink...not a bad deal. Lots of people go here for dates, and I like to show people it their first night in Seoul so they can see how big the city really is.

Actually, I should tell you about this hotel I recommended for Andrea and Jess...they were raving about it and I did to. There are three new hotels in Yeouido (all about 1/2 a block from my place) Kobos, the Ben Hur and Hotel M. Kobos was the first and many of my buds stayed there. It was just 60,000 won a night (52USD) but now it's up to 80,000 won. Ben Hur and Hotel M are brand new and have the same prices and all of them have jacuzzi baths, steam showers, big-screen TVs, in-room spring water, free coffee and mini-bar stuff, DVD player, and 24-hour high-speed Internet), but the Ben Hur has 2 advantages: (i) it has many DVDs guests can use and (ii) there is a restaurant near my place (where we had the Kalbi, actually) that has 50% off coupons for Saturday and Sunday nights. What a deal! I've made it a point to stock up on those coupons.

Saturday, October 02, 2004

Shopping in Yongsan Electronics Market

There are two main areas to shop for gadgets in Seoul: 용산전자시장/yongsan-jeonja-shijang (Yongsan Electronics Market, at Yongsan Subway Station) and 테크노마트/Technomart (at 강변역/Gangbyeon Subway Station). We went to Yongsan yesterday as Andrea (a teacher from Pusan who came up with her daughter Jess) wanted to get a super-cool Dica (Digital Camera in Konglish).

First though, on Friday night Minaz and I went to The Outsider bar near my place and I actually won something in the bingo game they usually have at 10PM. A soccer ball signed by the Suwon Samsung F.C. players! Oh ya!


My winning from The Outsider!

Ok, back to the dica. We looked at many places to find the thing. It was tough to find as it is brand new...the Sony T-11. It's so new it isn't even on the Sony USA website! Anyways, we found one. The guy started at 600,000 won. Then came down to 560,000 (about $486USD) including a 128K memory chip. It also has a cool docking station to recharge and sync with a PC and a massive display screen. After Minaz priced it at about 728USD equivalent (about 33% cheaper in Korea) after taxes it was a done deal. The thing rocks, too.


Andrea picking up her new Sony T-11 after Minaz check the price at futureshop.com

Looking around I was not surprised to see lovely ladies pitching goods here in almost every poster. Take a look at this one. Man, that is one thin waist. I guess the idea here is that both the notebook and her figure is very stunning...I mean thin.


Look how thin that notebook is (and her too)!

We tried to make a break for it but got way-laid in the DVD section on the bottom floor. This guy was a hoot. If you know Korean Gag-TV stars then all I have to say is that he's a natural. If not, then think: Korean Jim Carrey.


Jessica and her new friend.

The selection of DVDs was just incredible--some of which were not even in Korean theatres yet. However, some of them do not work 100%...like Minaz's copy of The Last Samurai where last, climactic scene was botched.


Collateral (not released in theatres in Korea yet) and Man on Fire (just watched it last week)...both on DVD for 5,000 won each.


Minaz, Sung Min (his DVD connection) and the Gag-Man of Yongsan Electronics Market.

After a dinner of rotisserie chicken and (for me) beer Minaz and I went to HongDae and ended up at Hodge Podge. It was pretty good there, we happened upon Rodgers and a group of Canadian English teachers...and at about midnight they had an 8 Mile-esque rap-off battle between Korean hip-hoppers for a 1,000,000 won (870USD) prize. Some of them sounded pretty bad and got booed off stage, but the winner was pretty good (although I hadn't a clue what he was talking about).


Mic Battle...just like 8 Mile!

I got home earlier than Minaz...getting old or something...and got a little sleep...inlining on Sunday (as you'll read).

Friday, October 01, 2004

Go to Canada, Young Man--and Banks Start to Listen.

I know first-hand that many Koreans are in Canada--especially in Vancouver and Toronto, but all over the place as well. Even my wife's whole immediate family is there now (well, except me). Canada is a big-time study destination too but recently there was even more news as North Koreans tried their luck at getting in to Canada.

Well, onto Canadian soil, at least. North Korean defectors scaled the wall of the Canadian embassy in Beijing as a stepping stone to getting to South Korea. Of course China issued a press release that it wants them back, but if I know Canada we're not likely to relinquish them to a state that'll likely put them back in to NK (or worse, if that's possible). It's kind of ironic as this is the time when the Korean economy is not doing all that hot and some Koreans are leaving the country (and their debts) behind them. (Many especially left during Choo-seoㅏk.) Even though Korea is tops in many areas it's still can be an expensive place to live and from what I hear defectors don't have an easy go of it; and most foreigners think it's pretty darn corrupt, to boot. I guess it depends on your viewpoint. (Cool stats from a recent survey here.)


Forty four North Korean defectors entered the Canadian Embassy in China demanding to be sent to South Korea. Reading South Korean newspapers, however, that report post-Chuseok public sentiment that people feel financial hardships and believe the government should do more to boost the economy. (Source)

Here comes the rant. I had to get some Canadian cash from the bank a while back (good thing I did it then, as the rate has risen from 890KRW/CAD to 913 KRW/CAD!) and waited 30 minutes to get to the teller to find out that they didn't have enough of it and I had to go to another (close, thankfully) branch. Over there it was quick, but I still thought that Korean banks, on the whole, leave something to be desired. For one, they have brutal (typical bankers') hours. Second, there is a fee if you use the ATM outside of those times and ATMs shut down from midnight to 8AM! (So much for 24 hour service; you can, however use a credit card at anytime.) They also don't let foreigners get Check-Cards (basically debit cards). Maybe it's because banks control 59% of the financial markets here, and the biggest ones (Kookmin Bank, Hana Bank, Shinhan/CHB) seem to have a bit of a stranglehold on everything.

Now the good news...someone's listening. Branches are getting extended hours, even open 365 days a year! They even had a survey in the District Office where I got my alien card renewed asking about service at banks and how to approve it. Excellent.